Great Wall at Jinshanling |
The problem with the Great Wall of China is that it is not flat. Obviously this was not a problem when it was
built. The mountainous location was
after all a design feature intended to keep barbarians out. What I mean is that my problem with the Great Wall is that it is not flat. Heights as
such do not bother me, but I find steep or uneven steps and ladders terrifying.
My husband Neil hates heights. Not an ideal situation, but you can’t visit Beijing and not see the
Great Wall.
On arrival at Jinshanling, we
took the gondola up to the Wall itself.
Swift action was necessary at the top to get out of the moving car - not
that easy when encumbered with a large camera bag. Once we had extricated ourselves
there was a short walk to the wall. The path was level and flanked by
sweetly-scented shrubs. Ahead, we could see the wall stretching across the
hillsides into the hazy distance. This
was not so bad.
Then we reached some
metal steps with open treads that led up to a watchtower. We couldn’t just look
at the wall. We had to climb onto it.
Taking a deep breath, I
cautiously clambered up, closely followed by Neil, our guide Penny and two
‘helpful’ ladies who had joined us in the hope of selling a book or T shirt
later. I had made it! I started taking photos of the view. However, it became clear that this was not to
be journey’s end. We were expected to
walk along the wall.
“This way?” I suggested, boldly
turning right. This was a mistake. The steps leading out of the tower simply
crumbled away into a 45-degree slope half-way down. There was no way I was going to get down
there, let alone back again. The surefooted helpful ladies had gone on ahead
and grabbed my hands trying to pull me down.
I pulled back. They spoke to
Penny and I caught the word “Taitai”
(wife).
“No, Taitai is not going down
there. Perhaps we should try the other way?” I suggested. We retraced our steps
through the watchtower and went out through the other door. This time we were faced with a flight of
steps that were all there. The only
problem was that the treads were only about 4 inches wide. I gritted my teeth and managed to scramble up
using hands as well as feet. Penny gave me a pitying look. Neil was troubled by
the height so didn’t look at all. We struggled only as far as the next
watchtower, then retraced our steps, to the great consternation of Penny and
the two ‘helpful’ women. To Penny’s great disgust, the highlight of our day was
the chicken with peanuts we ate on regaining terra firma. We had been
there and done it, but we did not buy the T-shirt.
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